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Surfing is all about feeling present. Join the wave with Gabriella Angotti-Jones

Por: Los Angeles Times Life October 19, 2022

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I’m floating on a longboard and the water is calm. The minimal wind or whitewash in the waves has the board gliding across the water, cutting through it like a smooth knife dipping into room-temperature butter. It's glassy, in surfer speak. You can almost see your reflection. This brief moment of serenity is an ideal time to talk, to think, to process, because when the time does come to catch that wave, there won’t be room for much... + full article



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